Jay Fisher - World Class Knifemaker

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Counterterrorism Knives:
"Taranis" counterterrorism, tactical, combat knife, obverse side view in CPMS30V high vanadium stainless tool steel blade, 304 stainless steel bolsters, Olive/Black G10 fiberglass epoxy composite laminate handle, locking kydex, aluminum, stainless steel sheath with ultimate belt loop extender and accessories

Hunting Knives

"Trophy" Game Set knives in D2 high carbon die steel, hand-engraved brass bolsters, Tiger Eye Quartz gemstone handles
Hunting, Fishing, Game, and Field Knives

This page is dedicated to knives used for hunting and fishing. Hunting knives are used to cut, slice, gut, pierce, skin game, field dress, dress out, cape, trim, quarter, manage, clean game, de-bone, and process game animals. Fishing knives are used to dress, gut, fillet, trim, chop, skin, scale, and process fish. This page also features bird and trout knives, multi-function knives, and utility knives that may be used in survival, expedition, and outdoor tasks and chores. Every knife you see on this page was made by me, and I've included some of my early knives for illustration. There are 117 pictures of hunting, fishing, and related field knives on this page.

Hunting knives have probably the most recognizable shapes in the cutlery industry. The blades are usually curved, and often feature fine and accurately ground thin points. This is because they are used for specific chores like skinning and piercing skin with a high degree of control. Any hunter knows the cost of bad knife work when field dressing game or caping a trophy buck. After what a good hunt may cost, a poor knife or bad job here can leave a sad memory. On this page are some of the uses, descriptions, and details about hunting knives specifically, their limitations and uses, methods of carry, storage, and sharpening. You'll also see quite a few thumbnail images of hunting knives I've made over the decades. Though some of them are not only for hunting and can be applied to other uses, such as survival and typical work that a knife blade may see, I've inlcuded them here if they have a design that is applicable for hunting, fishing, or game handling tasks.

A fine knife is a pleasure to use. Unsheathing your fine custom knife after a successful kill is more than history, it honors the entire hunting process. It isn't hard to imagine the men of the past, all feeling the same kind of thrill as we do today: planning for the hunt, embarking to territories unknown, enduring the hardships and fascination of the land, detecting and stalking the prey, and the satisfaction of supplying the family or tribe with fresh game. The moment continues as the game is then gutted, cooled, dressed, and quartered for the trip home. True, the tool of the kill is essential. But so is a fine hunting knife, or the kill is just target practice.

The Trophy Game Set

In my life, I've seen many styles and grades of knife used for hunting. I grew up using a fairly straight, simple light trailing point my father gave me (as many fathers do). It was a decent piece of steel, and I still have it around in a box somewhere. Why do I keep this old plain knife? It's not because it has any monetary value, it's because my father gave it to me, and I carried it on our hunts together, and on camping trips, and in the Boy Scouts. It evokes special memories of our times together, unique to only a father and son. So there is more than just the good use of a fine tool for the hunting sport or game. If you have children, your hunting knife may well be destined to become an heirloom.

I've seen a lot of bad knives in my time; all of us have. We've heard stories about having to carry a sharpening stone to the field. We've heard of knife blades bending, rolling over, dulling, or chipping. We've heard about knives unsuited to the task, with the wrong shape or profile, with a blade too thick, too dull, too soft, or too uncomfortable to use. It's my desire to try to clarify some points from a professional knifemaker about hunting and fishing knives on this page.

"Aunkst"-  my most popular trailing point hunting knife in stainless tool steel, brass, exotic hardwoods and gemstone
Hunting Knife Considerations
Hunting Knife Blade Steels

Modern tool steels are a wonder. They can be hard, wear resisting, and tough at the same time. They can also be stainless and corrosion resistant. There is no super steel (see these topics on my FAQ page and Blades page for details about steel hype), and your fine hunting, fishing or field knife must be selected carefully. Let's look at the steels from a hunter's and fisher's standpoint individually.

  • Plain Carbon Steels: These are the traditional long-time hunting steel types and are classified in the Machinists' Guide as Standard Carbon Steels. Before stainless steels, these high carbon steels had achieved a reputation for edge holding, sharpness, and wear resistance. Steels like 5160, 1095, and 1025 are low in alloys, easy to work with, and cheap. They are used because they can be hand-forged and have a relatively low critical temperature and are easy and forgiving to work with. I rarely use them because there are so much better alloy steels on the market that will offer increased wear resistance, increased corrosion resistance, and higher toughness at a higher hardness than plain carbon standard steels. While in the past these were worthwhile steels, they can not hold a candle to modern, high alloy tool steels, chromium steels, tool steels, and high technology steels available today. In the hunting realm, most knives made of plain carbon steels today are used in plain, simple, hand-forged, inexpensive, and primitive knives. While there is still a following for this type of knife, this is not a type I make.
  • High alloy cold work tool steels: In this steel type, I mostly use O-1, an oil hardening high tungsten-vanadium alloy tool steel which is classified as a "cold work" tool steel. Please remember that not all O-1 is the same; some versions from some suppliers contain little tungsten and no vanadium at all. The O-1 I use can be made both hard and tough, ground very thin, is tough, and yet can be sharpened in the field with ease. It is able to achieve and hold an incredibly sharp edge with very little stonework, and you don't have to be an expert to sharpen it. It's drawbacks are that it is not stainless and will rust if not cared for, and is not as wear resistant as the high chromium stainless tool steels. It's the least expensive of the tool steels I use, though it is not cheap. It blues well for a subdued look, and some hunters prefer the mottled, dark, seasoned patina it achieves after several years of use. Because it is moderately easy to sharpen, bringing up the fine edge in the field is no big deal. O-1 is NOT a plain carbon or high carbon steel, it is a true high alloy tool steel, with significant amounts of alloying elements like tungsten and vanadium, so this strong steel holds a very good edge, much better than plain carbon or high carbon steels.
  • High chromium martensitic stainless tool steels: Predominately, I use 440C. Actually classified as SAE 51440C, This is a great steel, and I use it for most of my knives. It is often used in industry for corrosion resistant ball bearings, wear, and valve parts. It has universal appeal, being capable of both hardness and toughness, has the highest corrosion and stain resistance at the highest level of finish, and is very wear resistant. It is tougher than O-1, so can be ground in a thinner cross-section and thus is capable of a stronger edge when ground thinner. It is more wear resistant, consequentially, it is not easy to field sharpen. The idea here is that your knife is sharp and wear resistant for several hunts, and should not need sharpening in the field. The high chromium content of this steel allows a very fine mirror finish, which is easy to clean, and is highly corrosion resistant. Of course, even stainless tool steels can rust if not cared for, or if stored with blood, tissue, or wetness in a leather sheath. Read more about corrosion and stainless steels on my knife care pages here and here. Care is minimal though, since 440C has up to 18% chromium. This is the only way to go for a fishing knife, as it has the highest corrosion resistance of any of the custom knife tool steels when mirror finished. 
  • High molybdenum martensitic stainless tool steels: What I'm talking about here is ATS-34 (or 154CM). It's essentially the same as 440C, but three percentage points of chromium have been replaced by molybdenum. This makes this a very tough tool steel, that is, resistant to breakage at higher hardness and thinner cross sectional dimensions. It's still stainless, though not as stain resisting as 440C, but it can be made a lot tougher. I emphasize can be made, because it's up to the knifemaker to set the final hardness and temper depending upon the blade geometry and intended use. See my "Blades" page for more details. ATS-34 is hard to field sharpen, so your ATS-34 knife must be thin and sharp enough for your field use and hunt. It can be used for fishing knives, and perform quite well, as the cross section of the knife blade can be made thinner than 440C and still be more fracture-resistant. But the trade-off here is stain resistance, as blood, orange juice, tomato juice, or other acidic fluids can corrode it over time. ATS-34 takes a beautiful polish, which makes for a fine looking knife that is easy to clean.
  • Crucible Powder Technology high molybdenum martensitic stainless tool steel: This is a newcomer on the market, specifically CPM154CM. This is a powder metal version, made by sintering together at high heat and pressure powdered components of the alloy for a more even distribution of alloy components. This is a great steel, with the same properties of ATS-34 above, but with greater uniformity and capable of a better finish, higher corrosion resistance, and improved performance. This steel is capable of a breathtaking mirror finish with no visible grain structure. The drawbacks to this steel are the higher cost and the limited sizes for projects.
  • Cold work high carbon, high chromium die steel: The steel here is D2. D2 is an older steel, originally used for dies to press and stamp and cut out other metals, and is also used in ball bearings as the load surface. It can be made to be one of the hardest, toughest, most wear-resistant tool steel blades. It has so much carbon and enough chromium that in the crystalline structure of the steel, in addition to iron carbides forming, forms chromium carbides, creating a structure of extremely hard particles, leading to very high wear resistance. This wear resistance is so hard that the knife cannot usually be field sharpened, which may be a drawback. The steel is also not a true stainless, only stain resistant as it has only 12% chromium. So blood, tissue, acidic fluids will corrode and stain this metal. The crystalline structure is also apparent in a high polish, and the surface displays an "orange peel" type of pattern. It is also expensive and limited in available sizes of stock. It's more expensive to cut, grind, mill, and finish also.
  • Crucible Powder Technology high vanadium tool steels: Mainly I use CPMS30V and CPMS90V: Mostly used in industry for plastics injection molding dies, these crucible powder technology tool steels are formed as a powder under tremendous heat and pressure for more uniform and concentrated alloy elements. The advantage of this in both of these steels is high vanadium content, approximately 3% for the CPMS30V and 9% for the CPMS90V. This forms an even distribution of vanadium carbides when properly heat treated, leading to an incredibly wear-resistant cutting edge. Unfortunately, they are almost impossible to sharpen in the field, and may take motorized equipment to sharpen. This is fine if you go to the field with a sharp knife, but every knife eventually dulls, so it's important to make sure it's sharp before the excursion. Though CPMS30V has a higher corrosion resistance on paper, it is not so in reality, as it can not be mirror finished to any effective degree, and a rougher surface simply corrodes more easily by having increased surface area and tooth to hold debris and corrosives like blood and moisture. So, in practice, a mirror finish on 440C, ATS-34, and CPM154CM is more corrosion resistant overall.
  • Other steels I use in hunting and fishing knives: I've used and will use M2, BG42, A1, CPMS60V, RWL-34, pattern-welded stainless and carbon steel damascus, only by special order and request. Each of these has specific applications, limitations and benefits.

The Nunavut Skinner
"Nunavut" obverse side view in 440C high chromium stainless steel blade, hand-engraved 304 stainless steel bolsters, agatized, jasper petrified wood gemstone handle, hand-carved, hand-dyed leather sheath
More about this Nunavut Skinner
Skinning an American Bison (Buffalo)

You often hear that fine custom and handmade knives are just too pretty to use. Here's an example of how beauty and function work together on one of the most demanding skinning knife chores, skinning an American Bison (Buffalo). This huge beast has one of the thickest, toughest hides of any animal, and the Nunavut skinning knife (440C mirror polished blade, hand-engraved stainless steel bolsters, and gemstone handle) makes short and elegant work of the process. Pretty? Yes, and highly functional!

Thanks, S. H. and P. S.!

Here's another Nunavut Skinning Knife with Musk Ox Boss Handle:
"Nunavut" custom skinning knife, obverse side view in 440C high chromium stainless steel blade, hand-engraved 304 stainless steel bolsters, Musk Ox boss horn handle, hand-tooled leather sheath
More about this Nunavut Skinner

Blade Geometry and Knife Examples

Blade geometry is more than important on hunting knives: it's critical. How thin a custom knife is ground depends upon the intended use, the cross-sectional thickness supporting the edge, the profile (shape) of the blade, and the steel type, hardness, and temper. No where is this so apparent as in hunting and fishing knives, as so much is usually asked of them. They must usually be thin and sharp enough to open tough hides and skins without snagging or ripping, and that might mean cutting through dirty and abrasive hair, mud, and scales. These materials are abrasive on a cutting edge, so high hardness and a medium temper is usually required. The blade must be thin enough to have a low sharpening angle for the finest cut. See more about these angles on my Blades page.

The shape of the blade has a lot to do with how a hunting knife is used, carried, and whether or not it's successful and reliable. Below are some of my most popular hunting knives. If you're familiar with hunting or game and field knives, you'll recognize trailing point skinners, drop point skinners, field dressing knives, gut hooks, line cutters, sweeping bellies, capers, and field pairs. Many of these knives double as survival knives, some even serve double duty as tactical knives. There is no rigid classification of a knife by its shape, indeed a kitchen knife could make a hunting tool. What I've included here are knives that are generally used in hunting, field dressing, survival, game preparation, and fishing, to give a broad perspective of what is a useful and valuable tool.

Many of these knives are of collector's or investment potential. There is no reason a knife carried to the field has to have a plain, flat blade and a simple wood or antler handle. I make those too, but I encourage you to enjoy the same lines, form, finish, and beauty as I do when I look at fine custom and handmade hunting knives. Some of the knives feature gemstone handles and hand-engraving. Even these fine investment grade knives may find their way to the field or in useful chores.

I've included quite a few pictures of my older knives. Please forgive the low quality of the photographs and my early workmanship, they were scanned in from chemical photos from back in the 1980's. I've been making knives a long time!

Please click on the thumbnail knife photographs
"Acamar" obverse side view in CPMS30V high vanadium stainless tool steel blade, 304 stainless steel bolsters, red-black canvas micarta phenolic handle, black basketweave leather sheath
"Almagordo" fine hunting, field dressing, utilty knife
"Alamogordo" is a fine knife for hunting, working, and utility chores
"Altair" is made of CPMS30V, a very wear resistant high vanadium powder metal technology tool steel
"Altair" obverse side view in CPMS30V high vanadium stainless steel blade, 304 stainless steel bolsters, green zebra jasper gemstone handle, brown basketweave leather sheath
"Ancient" has a nice belly and a good drop point for skinning and ease of sheathing
"Aquila" obverse side view in CPMS30V high vanadium stainless tool steel blade, 304 stainless steel bolsters, blue-black G10 fiberglass epoxy laminate handle, hand-stamped black basketweave leather sheath
Fine hunting butcher's knife for dressing, barbequeing large game animals: "Artemis"
"Aspen" has a good belly for skinning, and large quillons on a hidden tang for hand safety
"Aunkst" have long trailing point blades, where the point trails higher than the spine of the blade
An "Aunkst" with a full tang and jade handle for great handle to blade strength
"Aunkst Magnum" is a larger, heavier, thicker (.250") version of this very popular western trailing point blade
Aunkst Magnum
My most popular hunting knife, designed by a professional outfitter for hunting, field dressing, game cleaning use
Aunkst in 440C high chromium stainless steel blade, hand-engraved 304 stainless steel bolsters, Nephrite Jade gemstone handle, basket weave hand-tooled leather sheath
"Aurora" is a fine smaller knife, with a good belly for working with small to medium sized game and utility chores. This style also makes a great bird and trout knife.
"Berger" is a traditional design, this one handled in trophy buck horn supplied by the client
"Blackwater" has a wide range of uses including utility, game, dressing, and hunting. This style also makes a great bird and trout knife.
A fine boning knife with a thin, slender, and tough hollow ground blade and thin cutting edge. This style also makes a great bird and trout knife.
"Bootes" a fine example of a collector's grade of stout drop point hunting knife with gemstone and engraving
"Buckhorn" was designed by owners of a game ranch for their personal use in hunting and dressing game
Buckhorn Skinner
This "Buckhorn" has a nice thumb rise for control in game, field, and utility chores
"Buckhorn" Caping, boning knife in 440C high chromium stainless steel blade, nickel silver bolsters, Goncalo Alves hardwood handle, engraved, hand-stamped leather sheath
Buckhorn Caping/Boning
A very fine version of the "Buckhorn" in engraved stainless steel and Confetti Agate handle
"Butch" is a custom designed castrating knife that can also find use in dressing and game chores. It is ground very thin for razor sharpness.
"Cabresto" is an older model of mine, with a frontal gut hook
This old "Cabresto" has a deep curved belly and a unique and comfortable handle in mosaic of gemstone
"Calisto" is a great small knife for game and field chores, and this one features a waterproof locking sheath for horizontal or vertical wear
"The Cattleman" has a distinctive curved drop point with an extreme belly, great for skinning, castrating, or working with game and hunting.
Here's a working cattleman with exotic hardwood handle
A pair of nice medium sized knives suitable for hunting and utility work.
Designed by a professional outfitter for use in dressing Elk, the Chama is a three fingered knife
The "Chama" knife works well in the palm of the hand, to work inside the animal for skinning and dressing.
The "Chama" with gemstone handle makes a fine drop point knife with a deep belly for skinning
A beautiful Chama with sodalite gemstone handle and hand-engraving on the bolsters
"Chimayo" is an old knife of mine, a thin inlaid handle with a lilght trailing point for dressing and skinning duty
A beatiful pair of matched knives, the Cibola and the Palm skinner in verdite (Budstone) gemstone handles
Cibola and Palm
"Clarau" is a great bird and trout design, suitable for caping or small game dressing
The "Coyote" is a small game knife with an accurate point and light weight handle
"Dagon" fillet, boning, carving, chef's, collector's knife, obverse side view in 440C high chromium stainless steel blade, 304 stainless steel bolsters, Green Orbicular Jasper gemstone handle, frog skin inlaid in hand-carved leather sheath
Though designed as a hiking and utility knife, the Diacria has a great blade and handle shape suitable for survival and hunting.
These early knives of mine, simple drop point knives, are utilitarian, clean, and light weight serviceable utility tools
Drop Point Utility
"Durango" in 440C high chromium stainless steel blade, copper, brass bolsters, Bird's Eye Serpentine gemstone handle
An old "Durango" style knife, with a hardwood handle and plenty of pins
A beautiful Durango with Petrified Dinosaur Bone gemstone handle and custom etching with lizard sheath
"El Tanin" is a classic nessmuk style of blade form, upswept and skinner
El Tanin
A fine pair of taper ground and thin fillet knives by Jay Fisher
Fisher's Fillet
The Firefly is a small, but thin and accurate blade form workable for skinning small game.
"Flamesteed" is a pattern with a lot going on, including survival, tactical defense, skinning, chopping, and gutting, a universal SERE knife
"Fornax" is a great design for a traditional deep belly drop point skinning knife
"Fox" is a smaller, lighter version of the "Coyote" and is great for light hunting, caping, and dressing chores. This style also makes a great bird and trout knife.
The "Green Chile" and "Red Chile" are neat hidden tang knives suitable for hunting and utility work, in gemstone and wood
Green Chile, Red Chile
A group of hunting knives representative of work I did in the early 1990's
A group of lightweight, ulititarinan hunting and working knives from my past
An unusual group of gemstone mosaic and inlaid handle knives with hunting roots
"Grus" is a short but stout knife suitable for skinning or dressing game as well as utility or working knife
This Half Moon Caping knife is a very early knife of mine, in hollow ground D2 and Cocobolo hardwood, a tough skinner
Half Moon Caper
Half Moon Caping knives, some early knives of mine in woods and gemstone
Half-Moon Caping
Here's another early pair of knives, a Half Moon Skinner and Caping knife in D2 die steel and banded jasper and hematite gemstone
Half Moon Skinner, Caper
"The Horseman" was designed for horseback, and is a simple, clean, utilitarian knife great for many cutting chores
The Horseman
A super tough and hard "Izar" great for small game with an amazing M2 tool steel blade and bloodwood handle
A very fine Chrysocolla "Izar" features a stainless steel damascus blade and a great drop point shape for numerous hunting and utility cutting chores
These four "Jemez" models are serious working knives and tools in exotic hardwoods
The "Largo" skinner has a palm handle that fits comfortably in the palm of the hand for working close in game dressing
The "Magdalena" is a classic large drop point hunting and working knife with a deep sweeping belly and comfortable handle
A pair of fine "Magdalenas" I designed and made when I lived in elk, bear, and cougar country
The Magdalena with Turitella agate fossilized sea shells gemstone handle; a large, serious hunting and game knife
"Magdalena Magnum" obverse side view in D2 extremely high carbon die steel blade, hand-engraved 304 stainless steel bolsters, Pilbara Picasso Jasper gemstone handle, hand-carved, hand-tooled leather sheath
Magdalena Magnum
"Magdalena-Prairie Falcon" hybrid design knife in 440C high chromium stainless steel blade, 304 stainless steel bolsters, stabilized box elder burl hardwood handle, kydex, aluminum, blued steel sheath
Magdalena-Prairie Falcon
A fine pair of knives for a variety of hunting and field chores, the Magnum skinner and the Ruidoso in gemstone handles
Magnum, Ruidoso
The Magnum Skinner is a heavy, large knife blending khukri style with deep belly hollow grinds
Magnum Skinner
This Magnum Skinner has a cocobolo hardwood handle and a horizontal small of the back sheath
Magnum Skinner
The "Marfak" is a great small knife with a serious point great for game or fish
This "Mirach" features a very stout exotic stainless steel blade and stabilized burl hardwood handle
The "Mirach" is a classic small drop point, great for a variety of hunting, fishing, and game dressing chores as well as a utility knife
A super stout Mirach with a granite handle and nickel silver bolsters is ready for any task
The "Mountain Creature" is a hybrid of several knives, and is a large, heavy, tough drop point suitable for large game and survival
Mountain Creature
The "Muleshoe" is a very tough smaller drop point with a wide and deep blade for a penetrating hollow grind
The "Mule" is a stout knife useful for many tasks; this one has a snowflake obsidian gemstone handle
The "Nihal" has a very pointed profile, a great design for hunting or fishing necessities
"Nunavut" custom skinning knife, obverse side view in 440C high chromium stainless steel blade, hand-engraved 304 stainless steel bolsters, Musk Ox boss horn handle, hand-tooled leather sheath
"Nunavut" obverse side view in 440C high chromium stainless steel blade, hand-engraved 304 stainless steel bolsters, agatized, jasper petrified wood gemstone handle, hand-carved, hand-dyed leather sheath
The "Ocate" is a magnificent knife, designed by a professional outfitter for dressing elk and large game animals
"Pecos II" is a great little palm knife, with an aggressive and fine point for accurate cutting chores. This style also makes a great bird and trout knife.
Pecos II
The "Phact" has a fine tapered point profile, great for caping or fine cutting and filleting. This style also makes a great bird and trout knife.
"Pherkad" is a classic Nessmuk style designed blade, this one is small and light with a comfortable handle that fits well in the palm of the hand
A beautiful "Pherkad" nessmuk style skinner with a Jade gemstone handle
The "Pluto" is a great small skinning knife, with classic hollow grind and blade profile
The "Rio Grande" is a great, universal working knife for hunting, fishing, and utility cutting needs
Rio Grande
The "Rio Salado" is a very nice large skinning, field dressing, and working tool for the hunt
Rio Salado
The "Rocky Mountain" camp knife set features three matched large and heavy drop point knives covering just about any field or excursion need
Rocky Mountain
The "Roadrunner" is a tight, small, slender tapered trailing point with a great blade for small game
"Ruidoso" has a straight, serious point and a comfortable agate handle that is useful as well as extremely durable
Here's a nice Ruidoso with a white banded agate handle and engraved stainless steel bolsters. This style also makes a great bird and trout knife.
A great pair of matched knives for skinning, field dressing, and caping, the Rio Salado and the matching caper
Rio Salado, Caper
The "Sanchez" boning knife is all business with a fine tapered blade and hardwood handle
A beautiful "Sanchez" boning knife with an Ironwood handle
"Sandia" is a small, light, hidden tang knife worthwhile for many chores in small game
A large "Sandia" is actually a faceted Bowie blade design; this one has a petrified wood hidden tang handle
Sandia (Magnum)
Three small Sandias, all with gemstone handles
"Santa Fe" obverse side view in 440C high chromium stainless steel blade, 304 stainless steel bolsters, orbicular jasper gemstone handle, lizard skin inlaid in hand-carved leather sheath
Santa Fe
Here's a group of some early small hunting and game knives with hardwood handles
Small Hunters
"Talitha" has a very fine, narrow and sharp slightly trailing point in the hollow ground blade for accurate caping, filleting, and gutting chores
"Tarazed" is a great design for light game dressing, bird and trout, hunting, caping and utility needs
The "Thuban" has a great curved blade design for many hunting, gutting, and skinning chores
The "Trophy" was designed as a trophy caper, with a slender, sharp hollow grind
This "Trophy" caper has a tough, hard, and beautiful agate gemstone handle. This style also makes a great bird and trout knife.
This beautiful "Trophy" caping knife has a stainless steel damascus blade and jasper gemstone handle
A "Trophy" caping knife has a very fine, slender hollow ground blade for accurate cutting of the cape
"Volans" is a classic, stylish fillet knife, with a fine point and sweeping curved hollow ground blade
Volans Fillet
The "Volans" is a beautiful fillet knife with a gemstone handle
Volans Fillet
The "Wasat" has a fine slender blade for filleting, boning, or fine cutting chores
The "Willow" bird and trout knife, with the "Cibola" field dressing and skinning knife
Willow and Cibola
"Willow" is a perfect bird and trout knife with a willow-leaf blade shape
"Yarden" obverse side view in CPMS30V powder metal technology high vanadium tool steel blade, 304 stainless steel guard and pommel, Sambar Stag handle, hand-stamped heavy leather sheath
"Yarden" obverse side view in CPMS30V high vanadium tool steel blade, 304 stainless steel bolsters, Thuya burl hardwood handle, hand-tooled leather sheath


...for being here. Please check back periodically; I'll add new knives as they are completed and information as time allows!

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